“The most striking feature is the "ancient ordination hall," which boasts rare "Hoop Taem" (traditional Thai mural painting) artwork both inside and out. The paintings depict village life and scenes from the "Sin Sai" epic, using a unique style with shades of blue, indigo, and earthy yellow in the dry pigments.”
Wat Sanuan Wari Phatthanaram stands as a profound cultural sanctuary that encapsulates the spiritual and artistic essence of the Isan people. At the heart of the temple lies the "Sim" or the ancient ordination hall, constructed in the local vernacular architectural style during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) around 1922. What elevates this temple to national significance is its remarkable "Hoop Taem"—the ancient mural paintings that adorn both the exterior and interior walls of the Sim. These murals were meticulously crafted by local folk artists using natural powder pigments, dominated by striking shades of indigo blue, earthy yellows, and cinnabar reds.
The thematic content of these murals is exceptionally captivating; rather than strictly adhering to traditional Buddhist hagiography, they focus heavily on the local literary masterpiece "Sin Sai" (Sangkh Silp Chai). This epic has served as a moral and ethical compass for the Isan community for generations. The illustrations provide a vivid window into the past, documenting social history through depictions of traditional attire, indigenous livelihoods, and the celebration of regional festivals known as "Heet Sip Song Khong Sip See." Furthermore, the murals feature whimsical renditions of mythical creatures from the Himmapan Forest, interpreted through the unique creative lens of the village craftsmen.
Architecturally, the Sim is a modest, single-story structure with a gabled roof clad in terracotta tiles. Small window openings were intentionally designed to maintain the structural integrity of the walls, providing a stable canvas for the extensive mural work. The temple grounds are harmoniously integrated with the surrounding Ban Kok cultural village, a community renowned for its traditional Mudmee silk weaving. Visiting this temple is far more than a spiritual journey; it is a step back in time, offering a rare opportunity to connect with the authentic roots and the enduring pride of Isan art that continues to thrive in the modern era.
How to Get There
- From Khon Kaen city center, take Highway 2 (Mittraphap Road) heading south (towards Amphoe Phon). Upon reaching the Ban Phai intersection, turn right onto Highway 229, heading towards Amphoe Chonnabot. Then, follow the signs to Ban Kok, Tambon Hua Rabue. The total distance is approximately 60-70 kilometers.
Travel Tips
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It is best to visit in the morning or late afternoon so that the sunlight illuminates the murals beautifully and it's not too hot.
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As this is an important religious site for the community, please dress respectfully.
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Do not touch the murals directly with your hands to prevent damage to the ancient paint.
- Visiting during Buddhist holy days or important religious holidays will allow you to experience the atmosphere of merit-making and the community's way of life up close.
Admission Fees:
- Free Entry. There is no admission fee for either Thai or foreign visitors.
Opening Hours:
- Open daily from 08:00 AM to 05:00 PM. (Hours may vary slightly during major Buddhist holidays or depending on the monks' daily monastic duties).