“Admire the beauty of the "Sim," or ancient ordination hall, a rare sight to behold, registered as a historical site by the Fine Arts Department. The exterior and interior walls are adorned with bas-relief sculptures by local artisans, clearly reflecting the lifestyle, culture, and local literature of the Isaan people.”

Wat Sa Bua Kaew, locally known as "Wat Ban Wang Khun," stands as a "Living Museum of Folk Art." The centerpiece of the temple is the "Ancient Sim" (Ordination Hall), constructed between 1927 and 1932 under the guidance of Abbot Phui and master local craftsmen Mr. Dee and Mr. Kham. Architecturally, it is a prime example of the "Sim Tueb" (closed-style ordination hall) characteristic of Isan vernacular architecture. It is built upon a high "Aew Khan" base (a tiered pedestal) to protect the structure from moisture and flooding, featuring a single-tiered gabled roof that was originally adorned with traditional terracotta tiles.

The most invaluable treasure of Wat Sa Bua Kaew is its "Embossed Murals" (low-relief sculptures), which represent an extremely rare form of Buddhist art in Thailand. Unlike standard "Hup Taem" (flat murals), these works were created using a "wet stucco" technique to create depth and dimension before pigments were applied. The four exterior walls meticulously illustrate the local epic "Sang Sin Chai" (Sankhasilpajaya), depicting the journey of Prince Sang Sin Chai from the royal forest excursions to his adventures in mystical realms. These scenes serve as allegories for the struggle between good and evil.

Moreover, the sculptures act as a "Historical and Anthropological Archive." They offer a fascinating glimpse into early Rattanakosin-era village life, featuring depictions of people on horseback, traditional attire (Jongkraben and Sarongs), and local wildlife. The flora and fauna are rendered in a "naïve art" style, reflecting the uninhibited imagination and sincere faith of the local artisans. The entrance staircase is guarded by unique stucco lions, which, rather than following the rigid aesthetic of central Thai royal courts, possess a charming, spirited, and approachable appearance. Recognizing its profound cultural significance, the Fine Arts Department officially registered Wat Sa Bua Kaew as a National Ancient Monument in 2001 to preserve this masterpiece of Isan intellectual and artistic heritage.


How to Get There
  • From Khon Kaen city, take Highway 2 (Mittraphap Road) towards Nakhon Ratchasima. Upon reaching Phon District, turn left onto Highway 207 (towards Nong Song Hong District). Drive straight for approximately 20 kilometers, then turn onto the road to Nong Mek Subdistrict, following the signs to Ban Wang Khun.

Travel Tips
  • Viewing the Reliefs: Walk clockwise around the Sim (Pradaksina) to follow the narrative flow of the "Sang Sin Chai" epic from beginning to end.

  • Best Lighting for Photography: Visit during the morning (08:30 – 10:30 AM) or late afternoon (03:00 – 04:30 PM). The slanted sunlight highlights the depth and details of the low-relief sculptures beautifully.

  • Exploring the Interior: As the "Sim Tueb" has small windows and limited natural light, carrying a small flashlight will help you appreciate the intricate details inside the hall.

  • Dress Code & Etiquette: This is a sacred site. Please dress modestly (no short skirts or sleeveless tops). Most importantly, do not touch or pick at the stucco reliefs, as the ancient lime mortar is extremely fragile.

  • Photography: General tourist photography is welcome. However, for commercial shoots or drone usage, please seek permission from the abbot first.

  • Engage with Locals: If possible, speak with the monks or village elders at Ban Wang Khun. They often share fascinating local lore and hidden meanings behind the artwork.

  • Preparation: The temple is in a quiet, rural area. It is recommended to bring your own drinking water and essentials, as major convenience stores are located further away in the district center.


Admission Fees:

  • Free admission for both Thai and international visitors.

Opening Hours:

  • Open daily from 08:00 AM to 05:00 PM. (Note: The ancient "Sim," or ordination hall, may be locked when not in use for religious ceremonies to ensure the safety of the artifacts. If you find it closed, you may politely request the resident monks to unlock it for a viewing.)

Wat Sa Bua Kaew

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Nong Mek Subdistrict, Nong Song Hong District, Khon Kaen Province 40190 Map

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